One of the things that people have repeatedly reminded us about here is that you have to be patient with every aspect of life. You won't be able to get nearly as much done in a day as you did in your former life and you shouldn't try. Just go with the flow.
Lord knows I'm not the most productive person, even on my best days :-) but Friday I figured with a plan, I'd check off a bunch of "must-dos" on my list, namely--
Buy butter, bread, milk, coffee, and some more fruit/veggies
Pay the electric bill
Pay the water bill
Order a couch
Meet with church officials about cars/residence permits (update only)
Rent a post office box
Mark also had to have a work contract approved by the general secretary
So here's how it went:
I took the kids to school--left around 7:25 and got back home around 8:45
Ate breakfast and answered a couple emails
Called the guy who makes couches (again) but no answer
Mark and I head into town around 9:30--I get dropped off at the post office
At the post office--I wait in line. Get to the front. Ask for a post office box. Am told to stand "over there". Go "over there". Wait. Tell another person I need a post office box. She tells me anyone who opens the box must fill out a form and submit two photos each. Ask to take forms with me because I don't have photos. Explain that it's more efficient to bring back completed forms than it is to fill them out here. Leave the post office (after finding out it closes at 1pm) to walk up to the water office.
Water office--Meet Mark driving away. The meter was read last week, but they don't have the information in the office yet. Pay the balance that is on the accounts (about $1.50) and will just wait til the end of the month to check again.
TOTAL TIME: 50 minutes
Electric office--Mark gets in line. I go two blocks over to buy a bootleg DVD for $8.00 (includes 5 movies). Then go to the bakery to buy bread. Meet Mark on the street. The meter was read last week, but they don't have the information in the office yet. Pay the balance that is on the accounts (about $14.00) and will just wait til the end of the month to check again.
TOTAL TIME: 45 minutes
Mark needs to meet the general secretary at 11:30. He decides to head in at 11:10 to see if he can catch him in--then we'll meet at a cafe for early lunch. General secretary is not in--we meet to get pics taken and then for lunch.
LUNCH--Mark orders 1 crepe with jam. Takes 45 minutes to get the food and another 14 minutes to get the bill. I got my samosas (cold) and my soda (warm) in 5 minutes.
General secretary calls--where's Mark? Go over to office. They review contract, I wait. They decide to meet again at 2:00 with shipping agent. It's 1:00. I need to leave at 1:30 to get kids at school. Decide to go to grocery to get bread/milk/coffee. Grocery store is closed. Remember that everything closes around 1:00 until 2 or 2:30. Run to computer store to check price of printers. Stop at little duka to get hooks to hang mosquito nets and fabric for a blanket.
Drop Mark off at shipping office and head out to school to get kids. Agree to pick Mark up when I come back through town. Stop at Shoprite after I get kids to get milk/bread/coffee. Fruit/veggies are outrageous there. Call Mark to see if he's done. They've just started (2:45). It's raining on and off so I agree to stay in town to give Mark a ride home. Take kids for milkshakes an then to bookstore to wait for Mark. Mark shows up. Leave town at 4:15.
So, never got any furniture ordered. Never got to the market to get fruits/veggies. Found out how to get a po box and pay bills, but will spend probably an hour on Monday actually paying for it. Will spend at least 2 hours shopping for food for the week. Wonder how to keep kids occupied for the 3 week break coming up. Wonder how to get anything done efficiently. Wonder if we get two cars will we be more efficient. Wonder if there is word for "efficient" in Swahili.
Saturday, March 25, 2006
Thursday, March 23, 2006
A word from Mark (finally)
I was on our Internet phone last night in a conference call with two college buddies and they told me to tell my wife to include me more in the blog....except for an occasional picture, they were wondering if I had made the trip and how I was doing. I'll try and take a few minutes on a regular basis and make posting.
First, I think it is amazing that I am here in Africa on a conference call with the United States for free. When I first started dating Carla (1982) it cost me nearly 20 cents a minute to talk to her and she only lived 25 miles away. I also had to catch her when the neighbors on the party-line were not trying to make a phone call. Those of you who have spent your life in the city may not know what a party line is, but several families share one phone connection. Each has a different ring and it takes quite a bit of cooperation with people you don't know to make a call. We just got our Internet phone working last week and for me it came a great time. I was feeling very isolated and alone after the first six weeks here and the ability to just call home was great. My parents live in Gig Harbor Washington, so I only see them once or twice a year. The phone has been the way I have stayed in contact with them....talking to them on a very regular basis. I surprised them on their cell phone somewhere in Iowa. I can imagine them standing in the mall sharing the ear piece talking to their son in Africa. I know without a doubt that everyone they met that day learned the story of their surprise phone call from Africa.
I have had a good first two weeks of working. I must have set some reasonable goals as I have been able to accomplish most of them. One of the most important things I have been trying to do is to get a contract set with a retired head master (school principal) here in Arusha. He has started three schools during his career and they have been very good schools by Tanzanian standards. He is a strong Christian man and, I think, is hoping to be hired as the first headmaster of our school. The board and I have been searching at this point, for an advisor, not a principal of the school yet. It has been hard to communicate both my respect for his experience and success, and my need to have someone with his connections along side me as I learn here while also making it clear that our work relationship will likely be temporary....that there are no promises of future employment. We are, I think, close to an agreement. Maybe tomorrow.
A picture for you to imagine. Ava and I have developed a fun tradition of going for a run together. It is always directed by her and she can actually run for quite some time. This started for us on Christmas day when she turned a family walk into a Dad/daughter run. I'm sure it was something to see us in the States when we were jogging down the road, but I assure you the Tanzanians don't know what to think when this little American girl leads her dad down the dirt roads and over the mud puddles. Some laugh, all comment, many join us....especially other little kids..... How lucky I am that she wants to spend this time with me...a good time for talking too.
A final note: I am so grateful that Carla has started and kept up with this blog, for you who read it and later....for our families memories! I'll try not to spoil her writing!
First, I think it is amazing that I am here in Africa on a conference call with the United States for free. When I first started dating Carla (1982) it cost me nearly 20 cents a minute to talk to her and she only lived 25 miles away. I also had to catch her when the neighbors on the party-line were not trying to make a phone call. Those of you who have spent your life in the city may not know what a party line is, but several families share one phone connection. Each has a different ring and it takes quite a bit of cooperation with people you don't know to make a call. We just got our Internet phone working last week and for me it came a great time. I was feeling very isolated and alone after the first six weeks here and the ability to just call home was great. My parents live in Gig Harbor Washington, so I only see them once or twice a year. The phone has been the way I have stayed in contact with them....talking to them on a very regular basis. I surprised them on their cell phone somewhere in Iowa. I can imagine them standing in the mall sharing the ear piece talking to their son in Africa. I know without a doubt that everyone they met that day learned the story of their surprise phone call from Africa.
I have had a good first two weeks of working. I must have set some reasonable goals as I have been able to accomplish most of them. One of the most important things I have been trying to do is to get a contract set with a retired head master (school principal) here in Arusha. He has started three schools during his career and they have been very good schools by Tanzanian standards. He is a strong Christian man and, I think, is hoping to be hired as the first headmaster of our school. The board and I have been searching at this point, for an advisor, not a principal of the school yet. It has been hard to communicate both my respect for his experience and success, and my need to have someone with his connections along side me as I learn here while also making it clear that our work relationship will likely be temporary....that there are no promises of future employment. We are, I think, close to an agreement. Maybe tomorrow.
A picture for you to imagine. Ava and I have developed a fun tradition of going for a run together. It is always directed by her and she can actually run for quite some time. This started for us on Christmas day when she turned a family walk into a Dad/daughter run. I'm sure it was something to see us in the States when we were jogging down the road, but I assure you the Tanzanians don't know what to think when this little American girl leads her dad down the dirt roads and over the mud puddles. Some laugh, all comment, many join us....especially other little kids..... How lucky I am that she wants to spend this time with me...a good time for talking too.
A final note: I am so grateful that Carla has started and kept up with this blog, for you who read it and later....for our families memories! I'll try not to spoil her writing!
A Followup
I thought perhaps I should delete the previous post and either drop it or write something more edifying in it's place. But no--I'm actually having a bit of a bad day (for no particular reason) and so I'm leaving it on--if you're going to read the blog, you'll end up seeing me as less than stellar sometimes. (haha)
The bottom line is....it is what it is. I'm not going to be able to change what's going on. We just have to be thoughtful and intentional about our decisions and be OK with that.
As a mini-cultural lesson/followup--the basket girl did not leave. When Mark came out for a run about 30 minutes later, she was still there. She said, "I am waiting to hear your answer because you are the baba (man/father) and you will make the final decision." So he did. Something else to get used to!
The bottom line is....it is what it is. I'm not going to be able to change what's going on. We just have to be thoughtful and intentional about our decisions and be OK with that.
As a mini-cultural lesson/followup--the basket girl did not leave. When Mark came out for a run about 30 minutes later, she was still there. She said, "I am waiting to hear your answer because you are the baba (man/father) and you will make the final decision." So he did. Something else to get used to!
Wednesday, March 22, 2006
Grrrrr.
Last week a young woman showed up at our gate selling baskets. The baskets are really nice here, woven from grass and usually with some color. They're very durable and compared to what you'd spend back home, really reasonable. I hesitated about buying at the gate, thinking that if I did this, the word would get out and I'd be inundated with people selling stuff--and my day guard doubles as the gardener so I don't have someone right up front to run interference for me. But she was very nice and the baskets were a good price and they were larger than what I usually see, so I bought 4 for Tsh20,000 (about $16.00). Then she asked if I would buy more.
break for cultural explanation: In Tanzania people generally do not come out and say what they mean. A common phrase is "labda kesho" meaning "maybe tomorrow" but it really means not at all. It's used in combination with "sihitaji" (I don't need it), "sitaki" (I don't want it) or the final "hapana!" (no).
So I said "labda kesho". We had talked about our work here a bit, and she asked if I would buy more for the school. I said no. I said maybe next year--not tomorrow, not the next day, not the next week, not the next month.
Yesterday she shows up at my gate asking for some extra money for rent. I said no.
Right now she's sitting outside my gate with square baskets that she told the guard would be for our school. I told him to her that I would not be buying anything.
This is driving me nuts on several levels. First of all, I'm having the guard do my dirty work. I'm not sure why, except that it's what everyone does. Second, I made my point very clearly and yet she comes back.
I know that by Tanzanian standards we are very wealthy and as such I need to be expected to be hit on for everything from buying stuff to asking for work to flat out begging. That I can accept. Part of our personal mission here is to determine how to use our giving to make a difference in addition to what we are doing with PHF.
What drives me nuts right now is that eventually I'm going to have to go out there and bluntly/rudely tell her not to come back. Then she'll go away thinking that the "rich wazungu" are mean and don't care about Tanzanians. Which is not true at all.
What is true is that Mark and I believe we are stewards of God's gifts to us and we want to use them in the best way possible--which is not by hand outs to every person that comes up to me with something to sell or a story to tell.
break for cultural explanation: In Tanzania people generally do not come out and say what they mean. A common phrase is "labda kesho" meaning "maybe tomorrow" but it really means not at all. It's used in combination with "sihitaji" (I don't need it), "sitaki" (I don't want it) or the final "hapana!" (no).
So I said "labda kesho". We had talked about our work here a bit, and she asked if I would buy more for the school. I said no. I said maybe next year--not tomorrow, not the next day, not the next week, not the next month.
Yesterday she shows up at my gate asking for some extra money for rent. I said no.
Right now she's sitting outside my gate with square baskets that she told the guard would be for our school. I told him to her that I would not be buying anything.
This is driving me nuts on several levels. First of all, I'm having the guard do my dirty work. I'm not sure why, except that it's what everyone does. Second, I made my point very clearly and yet she comes back.
I know that by Tanzanian standards we are very wealthy and as such I need to be expected to be hit on for everything from buying stuff to asking for work to flat out begging. That I can accept. Part of our personal mission here is to determine how to use our giving to make a difference in addition to what we are doing with PHF.
What drives me nuts right now is that eventually I'm going to have to go out there and bluntly/rudely tell her not to come back. Then she'll go away thinking that the "rich wazungu" are mean and don't care about Tanzanians. Which is not true at all.
What is true is that Mark and I believe we are stewards of God's gifts to us and we want to use them in the best way possible--which is not by hand outs to every person that comes up to me with something to sell or a story to tell.
Facts about AIDs in Tanzania
As of 2004, 38 million people worldwide were living with HIV/AIDS. Approximately 25 million of these people live in Sub-Saharan Africa. (UNAIDS)
Of the 37.6 million people living in Tanzania, an estimated 1.6 million are living with HIV/AIDS. (UNPOP/UNAIDS)
By 2010, AIDS is expected to increase the death rate in Tanzania by more than one-half, and life expectancy will drop from 56 years to 47 years. (World Bank)
By 2005, Tanzania will lose 9.1 percent of its active labor force due to HIV/AIDS, and by 2020 the labor force loss is expected to be 14.6 percent. (UNAIDS/UNPOP)
Each year in Tanzania, approximately 50,000 to 60,000 children are born HIV-positive. (UNAIDS)
Some 140,000 Tanzanian children under age 15 are living with HIV/AIDS. (UNAIDS)
State of AIDS Orphans
In sub-Saharan Africa 12 million children have lost one or both parents to AIDS. By 2010, this number will climb to 18 million. (UNAIDS, UNICEF, USAID)
In Tanzania, 980,000 children have lost one or both parent to HIV/AIDS. (UNAIDS)
22% of Tanzanian children under 15 years of age are AIDS orphans.
Of the 37.6 million people living in Tanzania, an estimated 1.6 million are living with HIV/AIDS. (UNPOP/UNAIDS)
By 2010, AIDS is expected to increase the death rate in Tanzania by more than one-half, and life expectancy will drop from 56 years to 47 years. (World Bank)
By 2005, Tanzania will lose 9.1 percent of its active labor force due to HIV/AIDS, and by 2020 the labor force loss is expected to be 14.6 percent. (UNAIDS/UNPOP)
Each year in Tanzania, approximately 50,000 to 60,000 children are born HIV-positive. (UNAIDS)
Some 140,000 Tanzanian children under age 15 are living with HIV/AIDS. (UNAIDS)
State of AIDS Orphans
In sub-Saharan Africa 12 million children have lost one or both parents to AIDS. By 2010, this number will climb to 18 million. (UNAIDS, UNICEF, USAID)
In Tanzania, 980,000 children have lost one or both parent to HIV/AIDS. (UNAIDS)
22% of Tanzanian children under 15 years of age are AIDS orphans.
Sunday, March 19, 2006
Our Trip to the Snake Park
Yesterday we took a family trip to that wonderful tourist attraction, the Arusha Snake Park. Actually, it was pretty interesting and I learned some very interesting things there, namely...
*We are surrounded on all sides by incredibly deadly snakes, including the black mamba (whose bite is almost 100% fatal and is the fastest snake on land), the gaboon viper (which has the longest--4 cm.--fangs of any snake), several varieties of spitting cobras, boomslangs, and several types of boa constrictors which have been documented to kill people. The kids have already learned not to walk around in tall grass or bushes without a stick or reach their hands into bushes for things. But I've learned that it will be a cold day in you-know-where before I go hiking around in the woods here.
*Americans are too worried about safety. Theoretically this was a zoo. My children have been to a lot of zoos. They understand that the animals are potentially dangerous, but they don't have to worry about them because of the barriers that prevent them from getting too close. Our first stop was the Nile crocodiles, the largest and most dangerous crocodiles in the world. These bad boys were about 7-8 feet long and laying right next to the fence. Oh, did I mention said fence is the kind of chain link fence you use to keep your dog in your yard? And did I mention that that was the ONLY thing standing between some people's children and the jaws of death?
Next stop was to see some caimen babies (caimens are like miniature crocodiles) which were about 18 inches long. They were securely kept in a little pen. Oh, did I mention said pen was a concrete ring about 18 inches high--and that was it? And that some people's children could actually reach in and touch them if their parents didn't spazz and yell beforehand?
Then there were birds--they had been injured and couldn't be released into the wild. There was a beautiful goshawk. Ava was interested in the baby chicks that had been thrown in to feed it so she leaned in for a closer look--and the goshawk flew right at the chicken wire (that's right--just chicken wire) to let her know that he didn't appreciate the attention. Next door was a big vulture that was clearly spending its days trying to break out, judging from the large holes it had torn into the wire of its cage.
*Sometimes you can have too much information. Like knowing just how many poisonous snakes there are in Tanzania. Even though everyone who lives here assures you they've never seen one. Or the fact that one of the displays for the boa constrictors included not only the fact that they've attacked and killed people, but actual photos showing a boa cut open with a hapless farmer INSIDE! Really! Now I'm the type whose kind of interested in bizarre and kind of creepy facts, but I thought I'd find those pics on an obscure website, not right up there on display! Good thing it was too high for Ava and Noah to see.
But we really had a great time--really! One of the highlights was the black spitting cobras. Luckily they did put the poisonous ones behind glass, but it was ordinary glass, not that plastic safety plexiglass. So I tapped on the glass to get their attention. They immediately crawled right up to the glass. When I tapped again, one rose about 2 feet straight up and flared its hood and leaned forward until it was nose to nose with Noah. Very impressive. Actually most of the snakes and animals were pretty animated, not like typical reptile displays we've seen.
They also had a camel ride...for about 50 cents, not the $5 they were charging at the Renaissance Fair this summer. The kids, especially Ava, loved it.
So if you come to visit, you can be sure that the Snake Park will be on your itinerary.
*We are surrounded on all sides by incredibly deadly snakes, including the black mamba (whose bite is almost 100% fatal and is the fastest snake on land), the gaboon viper (which has the longest--4 cm.--fangs of any snake), several varieties of spitting cobras, boomslangs, and several types of boa constrictors which have been documented to kill people. The kids have already learned not to walk around in tall grass or bushes without a stick or reach their hands into bushes for things. But I've learned that it will be a cold day in you-know-where before I go hiking around in the woods here.
*Americans are too worried about safety. Theoretically this was a zoo. My children have been to a lot of zoos. They understand that the animals are potentially dangerous, but they don't have to worry about them because of the barriers that prevent them from getting too close. Our first stop was the Nile crocodiles, the largest and most dangerous crocodiles in the world. These bad boys were about 7-8 feet long and laying right next to the fence. Oh, did I mention said fence is the kind of chain link fence you use to keep your dog in your yard? And did I mention that that was the ONLY thing standing between some people's children and the jaws of death?
Next stop was to see some caimen babies (caimens are like miniature crocodiles) which were about 18 inches long. They were securely kept in a little pen. Oh, did I mention said pen was a concrete ring about 18 inches high--and that was it? And that some people's children could actually reach in and touch them if their parents didn't spazz and yell beforehand?
Then there were birds--they had been injured and couldn't be released into the wild. There was a beautiful goshawk. Ava was interested in the baby chicks that had been thrown in to feed it so she leaned in for a closer look--and the goshawk flew right at the chicken wire (that's right--just chicken wire) to let her know that he didn't appreciate the attention. Next door was a big vulture that was clearly spending its days trying to break out, judging from the large holes it had torn into the wire of its cage.
*Sometimes you can have too much information. Like knowing just how many poisonous snakes there are in Tanzania. Even though everyone who lives here assures you they've never seen one. Or the fact that one of the displays for the boa constrictors included not only the fact that they've attacked and killed people, but actual photos showing a boa cut open with a hapless farmer INSIDE! Really! Now I'm the type whose kind of interested in bizarre and kind of creepy facts, but I thought I'd find those pics on an obscure website, not right up there on display! Good thing it was too high for Ava and Noah to see.
But we really had a great time--really! One of the highlights was the black spitting cobras. Luckily they did put the poisonous ones behind glass, but it was ordinary glass, not that plastic safety plexiglass. So I tapped on the glass to get their attention. They immediately crawled right up to the glass. When I tapped again, one rose about 2 feet straight up and flared its hood and leaned forward until it was nose to nose with Noah. Very impressive. Actually most of the snakes and animals were pretty animated, not like typical reptile displays we've seen.
They also had a camel ride...for about 50 cents, not the $5 they were charging at the Renaissance Fair this summer. The kids, especially Ava, loved it.
So if you come to visit, you can be sure that the Snake Park will be on your itinerary.
Meet Yasini
This is Yasini, our housekeeper, and his family--his wife, Lucy, sons Amani (left) and Fadhili (right) and baby Happy, who turned 2 today. They also have an older daughter, Johanna, who is in secondary school. They are a wonderful Christian family and we have really enjoyed getting to know them. (click on the pic to enlarge for a better view)We also feel a strong sense of responsibility to him and his family. Yasini worked for 13 years at a Baptist seminary and had a very good position caring for volunteers and the guest houses. His job, however, was going to be phased out and it was very difficult for them to realize they had to leave to find other work. So along we came. But we live far away from the seminary--their oldest daughter had to start boarding school, Amani now lives with his aunt and sees his family a couple weekends a month, and Fadhili left an English medium school at the seminary to go to a government school near us. And, prices for food are much higher here than at the markets where they previously shopped. Now, this may have all happened anyway with whatever job he had to take, but these are huge changes for a man very devoted to his family. Also, when we move out to the PHA site, they will have to make changes again. So we worry about the struggles that they are facing as well, ones they may not feel comfortable sharing (yet).
Despite their own needs, they also have a young girl (about 16) living with them who helps out. Elizabeth's family did not have money to support her after her father died, let alone go to school, so she lives with Yasini in his home and helps out with Happy and their family in exchange for room and board. Which I think is pretty inspiring--because the salary we pay Yasini is very fair in terms of housekeepers, but like most Tanzanians, he lives close to the edge. Yet, he gives this help to someone else in more need.
We feel really blessed to have Yasini and Lucy and their family in our lives!
Saturday, March 18, 2006
A couple corrections...
My friend Lindsay's blog is actually www.maingirll.blogspot.com. Her kids were in MNVA last year and we did a coop with my other friend Karen and another family. Her kids went to Spanish immersion this year and I really missed them this fall. She has great insights on so many things and makes great food (and sometimes posts pics of it) and since I have an ongoing obsession with food I miss, I check in to see what she might post :-)
And I think Ruka (which is the kitten's official name) has fleas, not lice. I don't know that that's any better, but for some reason I'm less bugged (haha) by it. I looked up info. online to make the diagnosis. All I know is that I had lice in high school once (it spread through our school after a big basketball tournament where we all piled in rooms together for several days) and getting rid of it was a gross pain in the neck. And that was with drycleaning and big washers and dryers. My washer takes 45 minutes to run a load and it has to hang dry. So if I had to wash everything, it would take forever.
But everyone agrees it just might be the sweetest kitten on earth (esp. for kids who've never had one) so we'll have to stick it out. I mean, without electricity to worry about now, we need another hardship to endure.
And I think Ruka (which is the kitten's official name) has fleas, not lice. I don't know that that's any better, but for some reason I'm less bugged (haha) by it. I looked up info. online to make the diagnosis. All I know is that I had lice in high school once (it spread through our school after a big basketball tournament where we all piled in rooms together for several days) and getting rid of it was a gross pain in the neck. And that was with drycleaning and big washers and dryers. My washer takes 45 minutes to run a load and it has to hang dry. So if I had to wash everything, it would take forever.
But everyone agrees it just might be the sweetest kitten on earth (esp. for kids who've never had one) so we'll have to stick it out. I mean, without electricity to worry about now, we need another hardship to endure.
Friday, March 17, 2006
Simplicity
Awhile ago, a friend of mine (www.mainegirl.blogspot.com) posted a pic of her daughter’s birthday. She turned 11 and wanted a special cake that is a tradition in her family and then wanted to turn all the lights off and pretend they didn’t have electricity and hang out by the fire. Lindsay wrote, “may she always be content with simplicity.”
I have thought about our experience here in Africa and what I would hope for my children as a result. I want to them to realize that they could take risks in their lives and face challenges and that they could meet those events with confidence. I want them to have a concrete understanding of how most of the world lives every day—and it’s not like their lives in Bloomington. I want them to see how people have faith in God when they have almost nothing. I want them to see that the world is much bigger and far more interesting than just the borders of the United States. I want them to be able to say “yeah, I’ll go there and do that” because they know they can.
But I decided that Lindsay’s wish for her daughter is at the top of my list for my own children. Daily we fight a losing battle with acquisition and keeping up and we invent all sorts of reasons why we do it. We say that the kids can’t compete well if we don’t start them early. We say that our lives will be enriched if we have that whatever-it-is. We say that we’ll make that time for something later. Maybe that’s true, sometimes. But I think it probably isn’t. And we’ve fallen victim to it as much as anyone. But here I’ve heard the repeated message from families that, despite the challenges and hardships, their quality of life is better here than back home. It’s the upside to the frustratingly slow and inefficient way things often get done here.
So, good work, Lindsay! You’re on the right track. Thanks for the inspiration.
Simplicity—it’s not just for the Amish anymore.
I have thought about our experience here in Africa and what I would hope for my children as a result. I want to them to realize that they could take risks in their lives and face challenges and that they could meet those events with confidence. I want them to have a concrete understanding of how most of the world lives every day—and it’s not like their lives in Bloomington. I want them to see how people have faith in God when they have almost nothing. I want them to see that the world is much bigger and far more interesting than just the borders of the United States. I want them to be able to say “yeah, I’ll go there and do that” because they know they can.
But I decided that Lindsay’s wish for her daughter is at the top of my list for my own children. Daily we fight a losing battle with acquisition and keeping up and we invent all sorts of reasons why we do it. We say that the kids can’t compete well if we don’t start them early. We say that our lives will be enriched if we have that whatever-it-is. We say that we’ll make that time for something later. Maybe that’s true, sometimes. But I think it probably isn’t. And we’ve fallen victim to it as much as anyone. But here I’ve heard the repeated message from families that, despite the challenges and hardships, their quality of life is better here than back home. It’s the upside to the frustratingly slow and inefficient way things often get done here.
So, good work, Lindsay! You’re on the right track. Thanks for the inspiration.
Simplicity—it’s not just for the Amish anymore.
The difference between TZ and the US
The police here are not always the source of law and order. There are police stops on the streets where they pull cars over and look for violations. Sometimes they require fines to be paid that don’t actually make it back to the office. You have to be firm and ask for a receipt, which will require them to actually turn in a fine rather than pocket it. They don’t like that.
If you don’t have the money to pay on the spot, they will take your car away and take you to jail until you can round up someone who can pay.
If you yell “mwizi” (thief) in the market, people will chase that person down and beat them to death. Really. A recent picture in the news showed the police rescuing a would-be thief from “mob justice.”
There is no ambulance service. You flag down a car (or the police order you) to take the injured person/s to the hospital. When you get to the hospital or clinic, treatment will be refused unless you pay in advance. So if you are delivering the person, you will either have to pay their bill for them, find a relative who can come and pay, or leave them there and let whatever happens happen. You can imagine that it is not in most people’s interest, then, to stop and help someone who is injured. To those of who have been raised to know that hospitals will treat emergencies, and a general understanding that people will help those in an emergency (and that medical help is always close at hand) these practices (and the resulting effect on human behavior) make me angry and frightened.
You need to always carry/have lots of money. No credit cards or checks are accepted. We use an ATM to get our $ from the States and even though you’re not “supposed” to have large amounts of money in your house or on you, the fact is that you need money all the time. So you have to always remember to go to the ATM. Then, you get your money in 10,000 shilling bills. But then you need 100 shillings or 300 shillings for something and no one can make change easily for more than a few thousand shillings. So you have to try to break down the large bills into smalls, which you can do at the bank where the ATM is. Except the queues (lines) are always impossibly long. We are still getting used to a cash only life.
If you don’t have the money to pay on the spot, they will take your car away and take you to jail until you can round up someone who can pay.
If you yell “mwizi” (thief) in the market, people will chase that person down and beat them to death. Really. A recent picture in the news showed the police rescuing a would-be thief from “mob justice.”
There is no ambulance service. You flag down a car (or the police order you) to take the injured person/s to the hospital. When you get to the hospital or clinic, treatment will be refused unless you pay in advance. So if you are delivering the person, you will either have to pay their bill for them, find a relative who can come and pay, or leave them there and let whatever happens happen. You can imagine that it is not in most people’s interest, then, to stop and help someone who is injured. To those of who have been raised to know that hospitals will treat emergencies, and a general understanding that people will help those in an emergency (and that medical help is always close at hand) these practices (and the resulting effect on human behavior) make me angry and frightened.
You need to always carry/have lots of money. No credit cards or checks are accepted. We use an ATM to get our $ from the States and even though you’re not “supposed” to have large amounts of money in your house or on you, the fact is that you need money all the time. So you have to always remember to go to the ATM. Then, you get your money in 10,000 shilling bills. But then you need 100 shillings or 300 shillings for something and no one can make change easily for more than a few thousand shillings. So you have to try to break down the large bills into smalls, which you can do at the bank where the ATM is. Except the queues (lines) are always impossibly long. We are still getting used to a cash only life.
Another First Day of School
The first day of school—again.
Monday was an auspicious day for the Hillmans. It was back to school time. We lined up and took the obligatory picture before heading off to class (which I think I've accidentally erased). For the rest of the year I will drive the kids to school in the morning (we leave at 7:30 to make sure we’re there by 8:00) and pick Ava up at noon 3 days a week. The boys will ride the bus home 3 days a week and I will be picking them all up at the same time twice a week. It’s a 40 minute roundtrip so I’ll be spending a bit of time in the (beater) car. When school starts next year, we’ll be in line for signing up for the bus for both a.m. and p.m.
They were all understandably nervous about the start. Cameron had a track and field day this morning and was put on a team (the kids are all assigned house teams (ala Hogwarts) and compete throughout the year for the house cup), but then was switched to a different team which threw him and made the rest of the event a bit hard. He did very well at several events, however. He rated the rest of the day as a “7” (high praise from him) and is looking forward to leaving on a 4 day camping adventure with his class. He has just returned from his class camping trip where they met very remote tribes, watched firemaking with a couple sticks, jewelry making, hunting, etc. and had a great time. Monday he will be trying to learn a dance routine for the school production of "Blues Brothers" where his class are backup dancers. He's really the bravest person I know right now!
Noah went on a fieldtrip to a nearby coffee plantation as his class is studying seeds and growth. He was reluctant to say he had a good day, but I think he enjoyed himself. He did not have a very positive experience starting first grade in Minnesota, so I think he’s waiting to see if things are better here. And, he’s the biggest homebody of us all and would rather be at home than anywhere else. He had show and tell and brought his lego set and seems to be enjoying himelf.
Ava cried for two days about school. The language camp school day was very tiring for her and less interactive than she’s used to so she didn’t want to go. We left her standing in the playground looking very forlorn, clutching her blanket…and picked up a wild child that could count to 10 in Swahili and sang all the way home. I think it went OK--however, she has teared up every morning when I dropped her off, but her teachers assure me that it's just an act. They all have swimming every week which is a highlight of the week.
I felt a big pang driving away that first day. Having Cameron at home for the last couple years was such a blessing for both of us. And it consumed so much of my time that he was really the prime focus of my days (anyone who’s homeschooled knows what I mean). Plus, I hadn’t expected to say “goodbye” to Ava so soon. It will take time to adjust to having them away during the day. I guess now is the time to put my feet up and browse my People magazine and eat bonbons—but neither of those things exists here. Rats.
Monday was an auspicious day for the Hillmans. It was back to school time. We lined up and took the obligatory picture before heading off to class (which I think I've accidentally erased). For the rest of the year I will drive the kids to school in the morning (we leave at 7:30 to make sure we’re there by 8:00) and pick Ava up at noon 3 days a week. The boys will ride the bus home 3 days a week and I will be picking them all up at the same time twice a week. It’s a 40 minute roundtrip so I’ll be spending a bit of time in the (beater) car. When school starts next year, we’ll be in line for signing up for the bus for both a.m. and p.m.
They were all understandably nervous about the start. Cameron had a track and field day this morning and was put on a team (the kids are all assigned house teams (ala Hogwarts) and compete throughout the year for the house cup), but then was switched to a different team which threw him and made the rest of the event a bit hard. He did very well at several events, however. He rated the rest of the day as a “7” (high praise from him) and is looking forward to leaving on a 4 day camping adventure with his class. He has just returned from his class camping trip where they met very remote tribes, watched firemaking with a couple sticks, jewelry making, hunting, etc. and had a great time. Monday he will be trying to learn a dance routine for the school production of "Blues Brothers" where his class are backup dancers. He's really the bravest person I know right now!
Noah went on a fieldtrip to a nearby coffee plantation as his class is studying seeds and growth. He was reluctant to say he had a good day, but I think he enjoyed himself. He did not have a very positive experience starting first grade in Minnesota, so I think he’s waiting to see if things are better here. And, he’s the biggest homebody of us all and would rather be at home than anywhere else. He had show and tell and brought his lego set and seems to be enjoying himelf.
Ava cried for two days about school. The language camp school day was very tiring for her and less interactive than she’s used to so she didn’t want to go. We left her standing in the playground looking very forlorn, clutching her blanket…and picked up a wild child that could count to 10 in Swahili and sang all the way home. I think it went OK--however, she has teared up every morning when I dropped her off, but her teachers assure me that it's just an act. They all have swimming every week which is a highlight of the week.
I felt a big pang driving away that first day. Having Cameron at home for the last couple years was such a blessing for both of us. And it consumed so much of my time that he was really the prime focus of my days (anyone who’s homeschooled knows what I mean). Plus, I hadn’t expected to say “goodbye” to Ava so soon. It will take time to adjust to having them away during the day. I guess now is the time to put my feet up and browse my People magazine and eat bonbons—but neither of those things exists here. Rats.
Read a Book
Read a(nother) book
I’m just finishing reading “Nine Hills to Nambonkaha” by Sarah Erdman (thank you Dr. Matt and Lisa!). The author spent two years (1998-200) in a small village in Cote d’Ivoire in West Africa. It’s an amazing story of her life in a small isolated village where the problems of the “modern world” are just beginning to encroach on centuries of tradition. It’s very good and I’m getting chills as I’m reading about a well-baby program that she’s worked to establish for the mothers in the village and the empowerment that the women feel with the knowledge they’ve gained. It would be a great book club book!
But even though Cote d’Ivoire is on the other side of the continent, the description of daily life would be very similar to villages in Tanzania, even near Arusha. Some people have said they thought we were brave, or sympathized with our potential electricity shutoff (which has not been mentioned again due to heavy rains in the reservoir area), but compared to the author of this book, we live in a suburban paradise. You can’t imagine how much work it takes to simply live here—and probably for most people around the world. Everything takes so much time and effort and all of the safety nets we take for granted simply don’t exist. The line between living and dying is very fine, even for those with some education or money. They live without expectation of change, yet they are unfailingly friendly and generally helpful. Yes, there is crime. Yes, we are hounded by begging and street hucksters whenever we step out of our car. Yes, the prices offered to us are always too high because we are “wazungu”. That’s a part of life here. But when we ran out of gas, 4 people gave up an hour to help us. When we practice our Swahili, people are patient and gently correct our grammar to help us learn. We are not very brave—the Tanzanians who live and work and raise families are the ones with courage and strength. They’re the ones to be admired.
By the way, the word “mzungu” or “wazungu” is the term applied to all white people here. It can be a slur, but is generally just a collective term, and one that we use about ourselves as well. It literally means “one who goes around in circles”. The story is that when early Europeans arrived and explored the area, they went from point to point and eventually ended up back where they started (in a circle). Later, it came to mean the people who went around and around, not knowing what to do. We feel that we fit that description completely, as we rarely know what to do or where to go when we start out!
Also, by the way…apparently the main water pumps for most of the city of Arusha are above us on the mountain. And they can’t turn off the power here or there would be no water for the city. So—wow for us.
I’m just finishing reading “Nine Hills to Nambonkaha” by Sarah Erdman (thank you Dr. Matt and Lisa!). The author spent two years (1998-200) in a small village in Cote d’Ivoire in West Africa. It’s an amazing story of her life in a small isolated village where the problems of the “modern world” are just beginning to encroach on centuries of tradition. It’s very good and I’m getting chills as I’m reading about a well-baby program that she’s worked to establish for the mothers in the village and the empowerment that the women feel with the knowledge they’ve gained. It would be a great book club book!
But even though Cote d’Ivoire is on the other side of the continent, the description of daily life would be very similar to villages in Tanzania, even near Arusha. Some people have said they thought we were brave, or sympathized with our potential electricity shutoff (which has not been mentioned again due to heavy rains in the reservoir area), but compared to the author of this book, we live in a suburban paradise. You can’t imagine how much work it takes to simply live here—and probably for most people around the world. Everything takes so much time and effort and all of the safety nets we take for granted simply don’t exist. The line between living and dying is very fine, even for those with some education or money. They live without expectation of change, yet they are unfailingly friendly and generally helpful. Yes, there is crime. Yes, we are hounded by begging and street hucksters whenever we step out of our car. Yes, the prices offered to us are always too high because we are “wazungu”. That’s a part of life here. But when we ran out of gas, 4 people gave up an hour to help us. When we practice our Swahili, people are patient and gently correct our grammar to help us learn. We are not very brave—the Tanzanians who live and work and raise families are the ones with courage and strength. They’re the ones to be admired.
By the way, the word “mzungu” or “wazungu” is the term applied to all white people here. It can be a slur, but is generally just a collective term, and one that we use about ourselves as well. It literally means “one who goes around in circles”. The story is that when early Europeans arrived and explored the area, they went from point to point and eventually ended up back where they started (in a circle). Later, it came to mean the people who went around and around, not knowing what to do. We feel that we fit that description completely, as we rarely know what to do or where to go when we start out!
Also, by the way…apparently the main water pumps for most of the city of Arusha are above us on the mountain. And they can’t turn off the power here or there would be no water for the city. So—wow for us.
Our new family member.
This is Kitten. He came from the duka down the street where the children saw him and begged for a kitten and reminded me how I said they could have one if only we didn't have a dog.
We think his name will be Ruka (Swahili for "jump") but we're waiting for Cameron to weigh in with his decision when he gets home. I'm hoping he likes the name because the other frontrunner is "Cutie" and I personally cannot bring myself to call anything "cutie". Paka (Swahili for "cat") was another (albeit lukewarm) option.
After the first day, he really does jump all over everything so I think Ruka is a perfect name.
Did I mention lice? Yep. The poor thing's been bathed, scrubbed, and dusted several times this week and is not allowed in bedrooms until I certify that he's clean. But we couldn't debug him until we had him home and there was no place to keep him while we cleaned him. I pray God is granting us protection from infestation because we rescued this poor thing from a bleak future.
Well, I don't know what I did...
But here's the birthday boy, looking a little too "teenagery" in my opinion. I'm realizing how much I valued the homeschooling time we had together now that he's back in school. He really is a very interesting person when you get to know him. I always have fun when we go places together...and now I miss him.
Maybe if I cut his hair, and he looks younger, I can keep him younger.
Happy Birthday!
Happy Birthday, Cameron!
Poor Cameron. He can have a tendency to be a bit cynical about life. I suppose he'll feel very slighted by his birthday entry, because it doesn't have a picture. I can't get photos to upload from our computer, so...
But he had a good birthday. We left language camp and picked up our furniture, shopped for food, and settled in at home. We had ice cream (again--cake here is just really really dry) and he opened his present--a Lego Star Wars Turbo Tank--which had been on his Christmas list as well. He was very surprised and excited! We finished up with birthday dinner at Khan's BBQ (see previous post about the auto parts store by day/BBQ by night) which we always enjoyed.
He started school Monday and left Tuesday with his new class for a 4 day camping trip. He's coming back today and we're all excited to hear how it went and to have him home again.
Cameron, I promise I'll post a birthday pic when I get this thing figured out!
But he had a good birthday. We left language camp and picked up our furniture, shopped for food, and settled in at home. We had ice cream (again--cake here is just really really dry) and he opened his present--a Lego Star Wars Turbo Tank--which had been on his Christmas list as well. He was very surprised and excited! We finished up with birthday dinner at Khan's BBQ (see previous post about the auto parts store by day/BBQ by night) which we always enjoyed.
He started school Monday and left Tuesday with his new class for a 4 day camping trip. He's coming back today and we're all excited to hear how it went and to have him home again.
Cameron, I promise I'll post a birthday pic when I get this thing figured out!
Wednesday, March 08, 2006
About the rain...
You know, I was thinking about the posts and emails I've sent about the electricity situation...and I think I have to confess I may be responsible for it. See, I get these emails from people that have a short story and promise that I will be either be showered with blessings or cursed forever if I don't pass them on to at least 10 other people.
And I don't. Ever. So you if you've ever passed something like that on to me, you now know that I'm the weakest link in whatever chain email is being passed around. Sorry.
But now I'm wondering if there's something to that after all...
Because right now it's raining like crazy and it's louder than heck on the metal roof. And today's news reported that the resevoir is somehow miraculously high enough that the shutoff may be postponed for several weeks, by which time enough rain may have fallen to take care of the problem this season.
So either the news reporting is a bit dodgy here, or I'm actually controlling natural events by not passing on chain emails.
You decide.
And I don't. Ever. So you if you've ever passed something like that on to me, you now know that I'm the weakest link in whatever chain email is being passed around. Sorry.
But now I'm wondering if there's something to that after all...
Because right now it's raining like crazy and it's louder than heck on the metal roof. And today's news reported that the resevoir is somehow miraculously high enough that the shutoff may be postponed for several weeks, by which time enough rain may have fallen to take care of the problem this season.
So either the news reporting is a bit dodgy here, or I'm actually controlling natural events by not passing on chain emails.
You decide.
OK, just a couple more animals
Now, I know what I said about animals and pictures, but Cameron and Noah just got back from a two day trip to Ngorongoro Crater. It's about a 3-4 hour drive from here--they went with 6 other kids, two dads, and teachers and camped there. We were very proud of Noah who spent his first away from home adventure in a tent in Africa with strangers. And Cameron scored some great pics so I'm sharing again...this'll be it for awhile, though--safaris don't come cheap and we will actually have to get productive now!
This young lion was less than 4 feet from the car when he decided to pose for some shots. An older lion eventually scared him off.
This young lion was less than 4 feet from the car when he decided to pose for some shots. An older lion eventually scared him off.
The hippos were a big hit. Did you know more people are killed by hippos than by any other animal in Africa? They're a lot faster (apparently) on land than you might think. There are places where you can take a river safari and cruise past them...but you know it'd just be some little wooden boat and I personally would be fainting and wetting my pants at the same time.
Tuesday, March 07, 2006
A (superficial) word about the Oscars
Now, I know I just posted a very serious story about our situation here, but I also just found out that I missed the Oscars, which I thought were next week--imagine, they went on without me! But I'll contribute my 2 cents...
If you haven't seen "Crash" you really should. It's a very painful look at race relations in America. I was left very disturbed and with an unsettled feeling that this is probably a pretty accurate portrayal of how people see each other. Which is pretty sad.
Matt Dillon (former teenage heartthrob) does a spot-on performance as a racist cop who is also tormented by trying to care for his dying father who is unable to navigate the maze of health care to get help. (btw--he also does a great turn as a self-centered pretty boy race car driver who goes over the edge in "Herbie Rides Again")
And Reese Witherspoon, who is really great in everything, too--if you haven't seen "Walk the Line" and/or bought a Johnny Cash Cd--well, shame on you! Everyone talks about Joaquin Phoenix--and he was tremendous as well, but her strength, not in just supporting him, but in resisting him, too, was amazing to watch.
And then I left the country without seeing anything else. Someone told me that in 6 months I wouldn't know or care about American pop culture, but I don't know...I admit it...I love pop movie culture, esp. movies. So there. And I have friends who will make sure I continue to keep up with the minutae of the celebrity movie world, even if I have to resort to watching bootleg movies here.
Which I won't be able to do because I won't have any electricity.
If you haven't seen "Crash" you really should. It's a very painful look at race relations in America. I was left very disturbed and with an unsettled feeling that this is probably a pretty accurate portrayal of how people see each other. Which is pretty sad.
Matt Dillon (former teenage heartthrob) does a spot-on performance as a racist cop who is also tormented by trying to care for his dying father who is unable to navigate the maze of health care to get help. (btw--he also does a great turn as a self-centered pretty boy race car driver who goes over the edge in "Herbie Rides Again")
And Reese Witherspoon, who is really great in everything, too--if you haven't seen "Walk the Line" and/or bought a Johnny Cash Cd--well, shame on you! Everyone talks about Joaquin Phoenix--and he was tremendous as well, but her strength, not in just supporting him, but in resisting him, too, was amazing to watch.
And then I left the country without seeing anything else. Someone told me that in 6 months I wouldn't know or care about American pop culture, but I don't know...I admit it...I love pop movie culture, esp. movies. So there. And I have friends who will make sure I continue to keep up with the minutae of the celebrity movie world, even if I have to resort to watching bootleg movies here.
Which I won't be able to do because I won't have any electricity.
News of the Drought
Since I've recently sent a note about the umeme (electricity) situation, here are some excerpts from the local papers...
The Mtera hydroelectric power plant could close down any time from this Friday because the water level has dropped further from 698.50 metres to 687.48 metres. The obvious outcome of such an eventuality would be an economic crunch of immense proportions as the country would be left with only the Songas gas-to-electricity power plant, which has also scaled down its output after a transformer broke down two weeks ago. (note: Songas powers only the Dar community)
However, the severe drought the country is experiencing, coupled with intensive human activities in the Great Ruaha catchment area, have resulted in significant shrinkage of the Great Ruaha tributaries’ regimes that feed the dam. Because of this, the country has been forced to reduce consumption through long hours of power rationing and frequent outages that have affected production in all sectors of the economy. With key economic sub-sectors such as tea, cotton, coffee and manufacturing forecasting a drop in their earnings due to power rationing and severe drought, the closure of the Mtera plant and its satellites dams could bring the economy to its knees never seen before in the past 10 years during which the economy recorded a bullish surge.
And from another report...
After a three-year spell of severe drought, water sources in Longido District, Arusha Region, have all dried up, forcing residents to trek long distances in search of water. Most families in the district now have to make do with less than 20 litres of water a day. To make things worse, the safety of the availably water cannot be guaranteed.
’People buy 20 litres of water for between 600/- and 700/-. Not all families can afford this,’ she said, adding that she had never before experienced such a severe drought. Her granddaughter, Anna Laizer, told The Guardian that all the water sources in the area had dried up. ’The rivers and lakes have all dried up. All places where we used to draw water are now bowls of dust,’ she said. ’There is isn’t a single drop of water in this village.’
Women and girls trek long distances in search of water, but they sometimes return home empty-handed or they are forced to spend a night or two from home in search of water. ’They walk for more than 16 kilometres in search of just 20 litres of water. And if they don’t get it, they don’t return home till the following day,’ he said.
When does an adventure stop being an adventure and start being harsh reality?
And what must it be like to have to live in these conditions at this level every day?
The Mtera hydroelectric power plant could close down any time from this Friday because the water level has dropped further from 698.50 metres to 687.48 metres. The obvious outcome of such an eventuality would be an economic crunch of immense proportions as the country would be left with only the Songas gas-to-electricity power plant, which has also scaled down its output after a transformer broke down two weeks ago. (note: Songas powers only the Dar community)
However, the severe drought the country is experiencing, coupled with intensive human activities in the Great Ruaha catchment area, have resulted in significant shrinkage of the Great Ruaha tributaries’ regimes that feed the dam. Because of this, the country has been forced to reduce consumption through long hours of power rationing and frequent outages that have affected production in all sectors of the economy. With key economic sub-sectors such as tea, cotton, coffee and manufacturing forecasting a drop in their earnings due to power rationing and severe drought, the closure of the Mtera plant and its satellites dams could bring the economy to its knees never seen before in the past 10 years during which the economy recorded a bullish surge.
And from another report...
After a three-year spell of severe drought, water sources in Longido District, Arusha Region, have all dried up, forcing residents to trek long distances in search of water. Most families in the district now have to make do with less than 20 litres of water a day. To make things worse, the safety of the availably water cannot be guaranteed.
’People buy 20 litres of water for between 600/- and 700/-. Not all families can afford this,’ she said, adding that she had never before experienced such a severe drought. Her granddaughter, Anna Laizer, told The Guardian that all the water sources in the area had dried up. ’The rivers and lakes have all dried up. All places where we used to draw water are now bowls of dust,’ she said. ’There is isn’t a single drop of water in this village.’
Women and girls trek long distances in search of water, but they sometimes return home empty-handed or they are forced to spend a night or two from home in search of water. ’They walk for more than 16 kilometres in search of just 20 litres of water. And if they don’t get it, they don’t return home till the following day,’ he said.
When does an adventure stop being an adventure and start being harsh reality?
And what must it be like to have to live in these conditions at this level every day?
Monday, March 06, 2006
Some Monkeys
Here are some monkeys that caused quite a commotion at the lodge pool on Saturday afternoon.
Here is a monkey that jumped on our picnic table and grabbed some bread that Cameron was just getting ready to put in his mouth right out of his hand. He was a colorful character.
Here is a monkey that jumped on our picnic table and grabbed some bread that Cameron was just getting ready to put in his mouth right out of his hand. He was a colorful character.
More of those Animal Pics and Tarangire information
I'm not sure these require much in the way of explanation...
Tarangire National Park is only about 120 km from Arusha (less than 2 hours on a paved road). It has the Tarangire River running through it which provides water year-round. Because of this it's considered the best "dry season" park in the country, as animals concentrate heavily in the area during the dry season.
It's rained quite a bit in the last week and we're were surprised to see how green everything was! Many of the animals (esp. zebras and wildebeests and giraffes) have begun to spread out so we worked hard for the animals we did see. We had a great guide with us, though. We did see two lions and 3 hyenas, although they were not clear enough for photos, so you'll have to take my word for it! We also found impala, harebeests, reedboks, waterbucks (all classified as DLA--deer like animals) as well as lots of interesting and colorful birds.
Sunday, March 05, 2006
Requisite pictures from our weekend at Tarangire
I won't bore you too much with our pics from Tarangire this weekend. Honestly, you know you can find better animals just about anywhere. But I will mention that the pics I'm posting were taken by Cameron and I think he did a great job!
Do I even need to mention what these are?
During the dry season, it's like watching squirrels in your yard to see these. They've started migrating now that it's rained a bit and so we only saw 6-7.
This is a dik-dik. They are very tiny, about the size of a beagle and very shy. This one was camped under a bush by the road. They're actually pretty easy to see since they seem to stick near the road.
More pics to follow, as well as a description of Tarangire National Park.
Do I even need to mention what these are?
During the dry season, it's like watching squirrels in your yard to see these. They've started migrating now that it's rained a bit and so we only saw 6-7.
This is a dik-dik. They are very tiny, about the size of a beagle and very shy. This one was camped under a bush by the road. They're actually pretty easy to see since they seem to stick near the road.
More pics to follow, as well as a description of Tarangire National Park.
Saturday, March 04, 2006
Swahili time--part 2
My friend Karen has this thing--when I write something, she always makes it look better. And I like that. So here's her explanation on Swahili time...
Tanzanians start their "day" at sunrise, not at midnight like we do. Since they are so close the the equator, sunrise is pretty much always at 6AM, it doesn't vary with seasons like it does for us. So they start their day at 6:00 AM, putting it at the top of the clock. That means that one hour after sunrise is 7AM - the hand on the clock will have advanced one hour, but on Western clocks the hand would point to the "1", not the 7. If you just think of the top position of the clock as sunrise, and that the hand moves around an hour at a time you can do the conversion in your head. And apprently there is something in the way they SAY the time which indicates morning or afternoon (everything is also confused by the fact that they do not divide their days into halves based on noon like we do - the AM and PM system - they have different words for early morning, mid-morning, etc. throughout the day, I think it's based on where the sun is in the sky. Not easy, but at least now I can understand the logic behind the system.
She's right, of course--she always is. But still--we're telling time using this system on a "traditional" clock, and calling the time what the clock actually says, but not what they actually mean. So, according to this explanation, when the hand is pointing to the "1" they'll say seven o'clock--but they really mean 1:00.
Grrr.
Tanzanians start their "day" at sunrise, not at midnight like we do. Since they are so close the the equator, sunrise is pretty much always at 6AM, it doesn't vary with seasons like it does for us. So they start their day at 6:00 AM, putting it at the top of the clock. That means that one hour after sunrise is 7AM - the hand on the clock will have advanced one hour, but on Western clocks the hand would point to the "1", not the 7. If you just think of the top position of the clock as sunrise, and that the hand moves around an hour at a time you can do the conversion in your head. And apprently there is something in the way they SAY the time which indicates morning or afternoon (everything is also confused by the fact that they do not divide their days into halves based on noon like we do - the AM and PM system - they have different words for early morning, mid-morning, etc. throughout the day, I think it's based on where the sun is in the sky. Not easy, but at least now I can understand the logic behind the system.
She's right, of course--she always is. But still--we're telling time using this system on a "traditional" clock, and calling the time what the clock actually says, but not what they actually mean. So, according to this explanation, when the hand is pointing to the "1" they'll say seven o'clock--but they really mean 1:00.
Grrr.
Today's culture lesson from an unwilling student
One of the great things about traveling is learning about new cultures. You can learn that some things are really great, perhaps even better than what you're used to in your "real" life. You can appreciate some things that seem quirky or eccentric because they add to the sense of adventure you're experiencing. You can learn to tolerate some things that you will either never feel comfortable with or completely understand.
And then there are things that just seem plain wrong. Today's lesson is on telling time Swahili-style.
Look at the clock above. Look at where the numbers are located. Imagine the big hand pointing toward the 12 and the little pointing at the 7. 7:00, right? And you'd never confuse whether it was morning or night because the context of any conversation would tell you what time you were referring to.
NOW...renumber the clock so that there is a 6 where the 12 is, a 7 where the 1 is, and so on. Go on, do it on paper. The clock will be renumbered so that each number is now directly across from where it is on the "standard" clock.
Now imagine the big hand pointing straight up and the little hand pointing toward the 7. It's no longer 7:00...now it's 1:00. Morning or night? The actual position of the hands indicates that it could be morning or evening. Not the time of 1:00.
To make it more interesting, when the time is written out, they wouldn't write one o'clock--they actually write seven o'clock!
So...when I read seven o'clock, I need to mentally move around the dial to understand they really mean one o'clock and then translate the words into Swahili, and then try to remember if they meant am or pm. And maybe they said some other important things during that conversation, too--not that I would know, because I would be hopelessly hung up on getting the time figured out.
There are no "Swahili clocks", by the way. Just the kind we all have. And you will always have to clarify whether you are talking Swahili time or English time when making arrangements.
Hmmm...
(to be culturally fair, I should mention that Mark has picked this up pretty easily--which is annoying--so I suppose it could be just me)
Tuesday, February 28, 2006
A Walking Talking Blessing...
That's Mark on the left. The guy on the right may look like an ordinary guy, but he's really a blessing straight from heaven (he'll probably roll his eyes when he reads that). But it's true. Steve and his family moved from Golden Valley to Dar es Salaam in July. He's the director (mkurugenzi in Swahili) of a Christian mission school called Haven of Peace Academy there. We met him last spring a few times before they left and he's here at language camp in class with us.
But it's not his amazing grasp of Kiswahili that makes him a blessing. It's just who he is--a strong Christian with such a positive and hopeful and realistic outlook on life here in Tanzania, particularly as it relates to family and faith and education. Although he and Mark are working on very different projects, his 6 months of experience ahead of us and his perspective on doing business here as ex-pats has been so supportive and helpful (when we're not terrified at hearing about the work there is to do actually put into words). :-) For us coming here, we have not arrived into any type of support network or "think tank" for living or working--it's something that we'll have to create ourselves. And even though Steve and his family live several hours away, we have come to see them as a key part of that support we'll need as we forge on here.
And so, if he doesn't kill Mark with these daily runs they go on...he'll continue to be a great support to Mark in his work and his faith.
Thanks, Steve.
Peace House and Project 640
Project 640 is a group of amazing people from Chicago who are supporting Peace House Foundation. Through their efforts they have raised a tremendous amount of money for our cause and created so much energy and enthusiasm wherever they go! Where they went was Tanzania this past week to work at the PHA site. We visited them on their last day before leaving on safari and a well-earned vacation. I think they truly experienced TANZANIA...the wonderful resourceful people, the need, the heat, the wind, the beauty...the dust tornado that knocked down the tent while they were under it...I'm not sure how to express my appreciation and admiration for what they've done...but for those who were here for the first time, we truly understand how they've been changed by their experience. You can read their blog entries from this week at http://web.mac.com/rjz48/iWeb/640Journal/Welcome.html
This is the banda(what we would call a gazebo) that the group worked on. Do you see any sizable trees anywhere? No? That's why we need the banda. It is located where the guest housing will be, but we're thinking that a few more of these might not be a bad idea until we can grow some shade!
Yes, we know it's hot and humid in Minnesota, but the heat and wind here at the equator is really punishing. So, the group also worked on these fabulous mosaics when taking a break from hard labor. I escaped without actual pics of their finished products but they are really wonderful. They'll be displayed at the school when it is compeleted and will be a special reminder of their efforts here.
This is the banda(what we would call a gazebo) that the group worked on. Do you see any sizable trees anywhere? No? That's why we need the banda. It is located where the guest housing will be, but we're thinking that a few more of these might not be a bad idea until we can grow some shade!
Yes, we know it's hot and humid in Minnesota, but the heat and wind here at the equator is really punishing. So, the group also worked on these fabulous mosaics when taking a break from hard labor. I escaped without actual pics of their finished products but they are really wonderful. They'll be displayed at the school when it is compeleted and will be a special reminder of their efforts here.
Trees need rain to grow...rain is terribly unpredictable here...so in addition to planting trees, the group also worked on a nursery where we can raise trees until the timing is right to plant them. There are trees here that grow 9 feet a year! So at least we're not waiting for an elm or maple, but it will be nice to give them a head start while we're waiting for optimal weather.
Thank you Project 640--you guys were and are terrific!
Another Ava Party
Ava's kindergarden class (what they call ages 3-6 here) had a little party for her today. They run a preschool for Tanzanian children here in the morning, which is why half the children are in uniform. They had juice, jam/bread, and a real birthday cake. Everything baked dries out unbelievably fast here, but the kids didn't mind at all. They sang happy birthday in English and then a Swahili song. The teachers made a Tshirt for Ava that says, "Give me a child for the first 6 years and you can have him forever". I can't remember who said it, but it's a quote often used to stress the importance of early education and intervention. Ava was very pleased with the whole affair!
These are Sebastian and Jonathon and we are thrilled that they arrived yesterday because they are boys, they speak outstanding English, and they are Cameron and Noah's ages...hurray! They are going to get to go on an overnight to Ngorongoro Crater and camp there. Of course they're thrilled!
For a bit of an eye-opener about the rest of the world...the boys' father is from Uganda, and their mother is from Denmark. When they married, he didn't speak Danish, so the only language common in the family was English. The dad went to Danish language school to learn to speak Danish. The children speak English at home and with their Ugandan relatives and Danish at school and with their Danish friend/relatives.
We're from Minnesota.
Monday, February 27, 2006
Peace House and Amani
Most of you know that Peace House supports a home for street children called Amani ("amani" means "peace" in Swahili). I first saw it 3 years ago when they were really struggling. Now, they are making plans for construction of a new building and it's really an amazing program! We spent an hour or so there last week with Project 640 (more on them later). Mark doesn't get enough mention on the blog, but yes, we did bring him along...
The kids were subdued to realize they were surrounded by sixty-some kids who have no homes. Some have run away because there wasn't food or they couldn't attend school. Some have lost parents and were mistreated or abused and arrived in Moshi to live on the street. Amani runs a reunification program to help families resolve issues that will allow the children to return home. The kids are very friendly and love showing off for cameras. Cameron was a good sport.
Noah is always less than thrilled to have his picture taken and was pretty overwhelmed by the attention from the kids. This was the only pic he was willing to put up with...
The kids were subdued to realize they were surrounded by sixty-some kids who have no homes. Some have run away because there wasn't food or they couldn't attend school. Some have lost parents and were mistreated or abused and arrived in Moshi to live on the street. Amani runs a reunification program to help families resolve issues that will allow the children to return home. The kids are very friendly and love showing off for cameras. Cameron was a good sport.
Noah is always less than thrilled to have his picture taken and was pretty overwhelmed by the attention from the kids. This was the only pic he was willing to put up with...
Culture Presentation at Langauge School
Just a few pics of a culture presentation at language school Friday afternoon. It was put on by a dancing/drumming group from Arusha. The dancing was a lot of fun--I'll try to learn how to post a video clip--otherwise I'll attach it via email. Ava and Rasmus aren't trying to join in--they're playing in the mud and (despite the drums and singing) did not realize a new group of dancers was starting!
This last dancer was great...lots of energy and enthusiasm. Several dances involved (real) spears and machetes and he made a great show of waving them at the kids, who loved it, of course! I'm thinking my kids will have great ideas for Halloween costumes when they return to the States....except I bet the neighbors will raise their eyebrows when they drag out their weapons!
Happy Birthday, Ava!
Today is Ava's birthday. She's a bit horse-crazy so you can imagine how excited she was to open her American birthday present! She also picked out a wooden lion from a local shop. She and Noah had collected a number of wooden animals from TZ which we left behind so they're looking forward to accruing a new menagerie. We had ice cream bars (ice cream is in short supply right now with the power outages) and finished with a wonderful swim at a nearby safari lodge.
By the way, we've finally located Ava's real family. She certainly looks much more like Minda and Rasmus, doesn't she? They are from Norway and they've become good friends this week at school. People commented about how Ava would stand out with her blond curls, but really there are so many Danes/Swedes/Norskis that she doesn't look much different than she did at home!
Wednesday, February 22, 2006
New People in our Lives
We are adding some new people to our lives. First, there is Nda. He is Maasai and works as our day guard/handyman. We also have Godfrey, who is our night guard and Samwe, who is our weekend day guard. They work for a service called Watch-n-Guard. We hired a service because we needed people quickly while we are at language school. Since everything here is done by who you know, it can take time to track down people that have good references.
This weekend Mark is helping our new housekeeper move in. His name is Yasini. He has a wife, Lucy, and 4 children--a high school girl, two boys about Cameron and Noah's ages, and a little girl almost two. He has been working for a Baptist seminary and speaks good English and has a pretty good idea of how Americans do things. Finding someone who knows how to read a recipe or knows what Americans tend to be picky about (like not cutting raw meat and fresh veggies with the same knife) which is also nice. The seminary is going to be turned over to new Tanzanian management and they have hinted that his job there may not last. Unlike many Tanzanians, Yasini decided to be proactive and was looking for another position.
Their family will be living in the servant's quarters at our compound. The SQ consists of two rooms, each about 10x12 feet, and a bathroom with a squatty potty and shower. There is an outdoor sink for washing and cooking. Nope, no kitchen--they cook on charcoal stoves. Yasini's daughter will start boarding at school and the oldest boy will live with his aunt until school is out--not because there's not enough room, but because it is very difficult for students to transfer between schools. When we move to the PHA site, his children will have to transition again to schools closer to our site and they may need to find their own housing as there may not be housing on site for workers.
Coming to work for us has made some logistical difficulties for Yasini. But, there are opportunities for him as well. He managed the guest housing at the seminary and did a great job of escorting visitors/volunteers around town as needed. He did not complete high school, but can read and write well and speaks good English--self-taught, so he is very motivated. It is likely that there would be opportunities for him at PHA, which he recognizes.
Mark is helping him move some things to storage and the rest of their stuff to our home. Renting truck for the afternoon would cost about 15,000Tsh. Is this a lot? Well, Yasini is earning 65,000 Tsh per month from us. That's less than $60 per month and is a very fair rate. So, yeah, 15,000 is a full week's work for him.
Just FYI, Nda is earning 50,000Tsh per month. Once Yasini and his family are living full-time on the compound we may not need him anymore as there would always be someone around the compound. He is actually working for the landlord (there's a very extended family operation working in this area) so he will be able to move to another position somewhere. Although he is a good worker, he's not really a gardener who can work with the flowers, shrubs, etc. Right now we are pretty happy with the night security system as they call the guards via radio every hour and dock them if they don't answer (if they're sleeping). The guard company charges about $120 per month, which is probably double what we would pay if we found someone on our own. But that takes time and we have to be comfortable knowing that the person would likely be sleeping through the night. That seems to be the case with just about everyone we've met, but without dogs, we feel better with the current system.
Speaking of pets, we stopped at a duka (a little shack-type shop) down from our house for sodas one day and found a white and gray (normal looking) cat with 3 little kittens. I'm sure you can write the rest of this story. We'll include pics when she arrives--and despite Mark's objections, I'm sure she will arrive. We checked with the vet and found out that neutering/spaying and all vaccinations will cost less than $60.00. Animals generally eat a smelly but inexpensive diet of ugali (a paste made with maize flour) or rice and dried fish cooked together, plus whatever scraps make their way from our table. The vet also posts dogs/puppies for sale from expats who may be leaving the country, so we'll keep our eyes open for something that is friendly but protective and barks at only the right times. Those of you who really know us knew this would be coming soon...
Should I mention Noah is drawing plans for a chicken coops, Ava is picking out baby goats by the side of the road, not to mention a burro!? No wonder we're referring to the school site lately as "the farm".
This weekend Mark is helping our new housekeeper move in. His name is Yasini. He has a wife, Lucy, and 4 children--a high school girl, two boys about Cameron and Noah's ages, and a little girl almost two. He has been working for a Baptist seminary and speaks good English and has a pretty good idea of how Americans do things. Finding someone who knows how to read a recipe or knows what Americans tend to be picky about (like not cutting raw meat and fresh veggies with the same knife) which is also nice. The seminary is going to be turned over to new Tanzanian management and they have hinted that his job there may not last. Unlike many Tanzanians, Yasini decided to be proactive and was looking for another position.
Their family will be living in the servant's quarters at our compound. The SQ consists of two rooms, each about 10x12 feet, and a bathroom with a squatty potty and shower. There is an outdoor sink for washing and cooking. Nope, no kitchen--they cook on charcoal stoves. Yasini's daughter will start boarding at school and the oldest boy will live with his aunt until school is out--not because there's not enough room, but because it is very difficult for students to transfer between schools. When we move to the PHA site, his children will have to transition again to schools closer to our site and they may need to find their own housing as there may not be housing on site for workers.
Coming to work for us has made some logistical difficulties for Yasini. But, there are opportunities for him as well. He managed the guest housing at the seminary and did a great job of escorting visitors/volunteers around town as needed. He did not complete high school, but can read and write well and speaks good English--self-taught, so he is very motivated. It is likely that there would be opportunities for him at PHA, which he recognizes.
Mark is helping him move some things to storage and the rest of their stuff to our home. Renting truck for the afternoon would cost about 15,000Tsh. Is this a lot? Well, Yasini is earning 65,000 Tsh per month from us. That's less than $60 per month and is a very fair rate. So, yeah, 15,000 is a full week's work for him.
Just FYI, Nda is earning 50,000Tsh per month. Once Yasini and his family are living full-time on the compound we may not need him anymore as there would always be someone around the compound. He is actually working for the landlord (there's a very extended family operation working in this area) so he will be able to move to another position somewhere. Although he is a good worker, he's not really a gardener who can work with the flowers, shrubs, etc. Right now we are pretty happy with the night security system as they call the guards via radio every hour and dock them if they don't answer (if they're sleeping). The guard company charges about $120 per month, which is probably double what we would pay if we found someone on our own. But that takes time and we have to be comfortable knowing that the person would likely be sleeping through the night. That seems to be the case with just about everyone we've met, but without dogs, we feel better with the current system.
Speaking of pets, we stopped at a duka (a little shack-type shop) down from our house for sodas one day and found a white and gray (normal looking) cat with 3 little kittens. I'm sure you can write the rest of this story. We'll include pics when she arrives--and despite Mark's objections, I'm sure she will arrive. We checked with the vet and found out that neutering/spaying and all vaccinations will cost less than $60.00. Animals generally eat a smelly but inexpensive diet of ugali (a paste made with maize flour) or rice and dried fish cooked together, plus whatever scraps make their way from our table. The vet also posts dogs/puppies for sale from expats who may be leaving the country, so we'll keep our eyes open for something that is friendly but protective and barks at only the right times. Those of you who really know us knew this would be coming soon...
Should I mention Noah is drawing plans for a chicken coops, Ava is picking out baby goats by the side of the road, not to mention a burro!? No wonder we're referring to the school site lately as "the farm".
And some more pics...
This is a look down the main drag in Arusha. It's not very crowded in this shot. Usually, you can hardly move. No stoplights at any intersections. Driving is not a relaxing endeavor and forget about using your cell phone (everyone here texts anyway because it's so much cheaper so that wouldn't work anyway).
By day Khan's sells auto parts, but when the sun goes down it turns into this terrific Indian barbeque place. They grill chicken, beef, and mutton, and then have amazing sauces and salads (hot and cold, spicy and mild) to add on. Add some naan and sodas and you've got a feast. Our whole family can eat for less than $20.
Remember our hut? Well, even with the stuff that needs to get done around the house, our landlord decided to hire these two women to remud our hut. They make mud from termite mounds and then use a mixture of water and ash to seal it.
Some thoughts because I can't upload pics for some reason
St. Karen also sent me People magazine's "Twenty Years of the Sexiest Man Alive". Here's what I've learned...
*I'm old--I was an adult 20 years ago
*Tom Cruise was really never that good-looking.
*Neither was Brad Pitt (except for A River Runs Through it)
*Mel Gibson really was that good-looking
*Patrick Swayze really DID look that good dancing
*Rob Lowe used way too much mousse (as did everyone else) in the 80s
*Hugh Jackman has been shortchanged every year he hasn't been on the cover
*I'm more interested in how long celebrities have been married than what they look like
I also used the word "paean" in a recent email to a friend. I'm pretty sure I know 3 people who can confidently know the definition of that word off the top of their heads. Feel free to discuss...
Virtually all Swahili words begin with mw or wa, and end in "i". They are also fond of repeating syllables...case in point...
yeye
wawa
mimi
baba
dada
kaka
dudu
mama
bibi
kuku
sisi
Points for whoever knows these...plus I'll crib the answers from you for my homework assignments (although, truth to tell, these are the few that I've been able to commit to memory so far).
Good night!
*I'm old--I was an adult 20 years ago
*Tom Cruise was really never that good-looking.
*Neither was Brad Pitt (except for A River Runs Through it)
*Mel Gibson really was that good-looking
*Patrick Swayze really DID look that good dancing
*Rob Lowe used way too much mousse (as did everyone else) in the 80s
*Hugh Jackman has been shortchanged every year he hasn't been on the cover
*I'm more interested in how long celebrities have been married than what they look like
I also used the word "paean" in a recent email to a friend. I'm pretty sure I know 3 people who can confidently know the definition of that word off the top of their heads. Feel free to discuss...
Virtually all Swahili words begin with mw or wa, and end in "i". They are also fond of repeating syllables...case in point...
yeye
wawa
mimi
baba
dada
kaka
dudu
mama
bibi
kuku
sisi
Points for whoever knows these...plus I'll crib the answers from you for my homework assignments (although, truth to tell, these are the few that I've been able to commit to memory so far).
Good night!
More Pics from nyumba na Hillman
Does the stove look nice? It is...it's gas to avoid electric hassles. We have a big tank that sits next to it. The next size down wouldn't fit a cookie sheet. Also, they don't fuss much with actual temperature. The other one only had "heat up". When it got to a temp. you thought was good, you just propped open the door to let out excess heat. At the equator. It might be a nice idea in Minnesota in the winter, but...Also, when the power cycles up or down, you can't always predict that what you think is the oven temp. actually is, so cooking times and results vary. I think this one will work for us! I've actually boiled noodles on it, although the altitude makes boiling take longer.
Our new bathroom (we have two). The tub is a nice touch. There is a handheld shower head that's a little like showering with a waterpik. Unlike home, landlords here don't care what you do to the place, since anything you do is likely to be an improvement. We're going the American route, though, and asking him to install an actual showerhead.
This is the living space. Parquet floors and wainscoting, plus a wood ceiling. Pretty, but dark with our lighting situation. The floors show every bit of dust (and there's a lot) more than concrete floors, but the wood actually reminds me of home so I like it.
This is the veranda (not a porch here) and our first cooked meal...mac and cheese with hot dogs. This stump topped with a window pane and two old cowhide chairs are our furniture. Somewhere in Minnesota people are enjoying my red leather chair and ottoman, my mission-style bed, my mission buffet...we will pick up our beds, dining room table/chairs, and coffee table at the end of language camp. A couch will come shortly after.
Tuesday, February 21, 2006
Cameron's new ambition
This is Cameron. He's not usually this dirty (but Ava is). He's trying to get a tan the only way he can. He told us the other day he might like to be a photographer.
He took this picture at the game sanctuary of a marabou stork flying overhead (standing they are taller than Noah). I think it's pretty good.
Mark's Trip to the Hospital
We are now starting a 3 week Swahili class at a Danish camp that works with langauge and NGO development (non-governmental organizations). Personally, I think it's great--the classes are terrific, the food is good, the beds are comfortable, the kids are having fun...
We arrived Sunday night and Mark went to bed with an upset stomach. He was up all night visiting the nice bathroom and spent all of Monday either in a bathroom or lying down. By dinner we were worried that it might be malaria (the symptoms can come on looking like the flu). Also, we are about 10 miles from Arusha and a hospital and if I had to drive him in the night I would have to bring the kids. The camp has a driver's service so I packed him off at about 8:30.
He arrived back home at 11:00 with good news--no malaria, but a stomach bug and a prescription for Cipro. He's feeling much better today. It was actually a blessing--I have worried about the kids getting sick or hurt and visiting the hospital, but now Mark has seen first hand that they are good and we know the way so I feel much better now.
BTW, "hopital" is used loosely. This is in a house. They are Tanzanian docs but well-trained and have a reputation for knowing when they are not adequate and referring out to Nairobi. They have a lab and have a good reputation for sterile work. They have 5-6 beds, all in a bedroom, so you can imagine what it might be like to have a sick kid on a night with a person who might have pneumonia or another with the flu. Medical care here does not include any personal care or feeding--that's up to the family.
The whole bill--visit, labwork, meds--20,000 Tshillings--less than $20.
He was also sent home with oral rehydration mix to drink (lovingly provided by the World Health Organization). Step one reads....
"Pour 1 litre (two 500ml beer bottles) of drinking water into a clean container."
Now I ask you, what kind of place clarifies a measurement with beer bottles? Honestly.
We arrived Sunday night and Mark went to bed with an upset stomach. He was up all night visiting the nice bathroom and spent all of Monday either in a bathroom or lying down. By dinner we were worried that it might be malaria (the symptoms can come on looking like the flu). Also, we are about 10 miles from Arusha and a hospital and if I had to drive him in the night I would have to bring the kids. The camp has a driver's service so I packed him off at about 8:30.
He arrived back home at 11:00 with good news--no malaria, but a stomach bug and a prescription for Cipro. He's feeling much better today. It was actually a blessing--I have worried about the kids getting sick or hurt and visiting the hospital, but now Mark has seen first hand that they are good and we know the way so I feel much better now.
BTW, "hopital" is used loosely. This is in a house. They are Tanzanian docs but well-trained and have a reputation for knowing when they are not adequate and referring out to Nairobi. They have a lab and have a good reputation for sterile work. They have 5-6 beds, all in a bedroom, so you can imagine what it might be like to have a sick kid on a night with a person who might have pneumonia or another with the flu. Medical care here does not include any personal care or feeding--that's up to the family.
The whole bill--visit, labwork, meds--20,000 Tshillings--less than $20.
He was also sent home with oral rehydration mix to drink (lovingly provided by the World Health Organization). Step one reads....
"Pour 1 litre (two 500ml beer bottles) of drinking water into a clean container."
Now I ask you, what kind of place clarifies a measurement with beer bottles? Honestly.
Sunday, February 19, 2006
Home in Arusha
This is our kitchen. It's a bit old-fashioned with the wall tile and you are looking at our only set of counters or cabinets. Right now they're empty, but not for long, I suppose! Acquiring stuff is more difficult here and the stuff you really need is pricey so I imagine my kitchen will not be as cluttered as my old one was! On the ceiling is the most energy-efficient light ever made. It's flourescent, which as you know, is longer lasting than regular light bulbs. We have them in the hallway and on the verdanda, too. During the day when we don't need them they light up just fine. After 7 when it's dark and they cycle the power down, the flourescent lights don't get enough power to turn on. So they don't. And we have to use a flashlight in the kitchen. Actually, there are flourescents in the living room, too, but those do come on, just not very bright so we use flashlights there, too. There is a water shortage which is causing power to be regulated so we don't know if the cycling down is a normal event or the result of the water shortage. We'll see....
This is the yard (what they call the "garden" here. You can just see Nda, our day guard/handyman. He doesn't speak any English so talking to him is a bit of a trial--I'm sure he feels the same way! He works very hard, though, and is very conscientious about arriving and leaving on time. His only broom is a bunch of branches tied together and his rake has been made of barbed wire. Apparently those tools are not that unusual but I'm going to do something about that when I get back. But if he has a good broom and rake, he'll finish his work sooner, and then what will he do? Honestly, that's a question people ask around here.
Here is the Hillman abode for the next 8-9 months. The temperature is wonderful and shady, unlike the school site where we'll eventually go. The view is from the front gate. Houses are in compounds so there is a wall covered with bouganvilla surrounding the yard and a large gate to come in and out. The gate is watched by either Nda (during the day) or security company guards on the nights and weekends. It makes you feel safe at night, but it can feel isolating during the day. On the other hand, given how many people stare and follow you when you go out, maybe it's not such a bad thing.More house pictures will be coming soon...uploading takes forever and multiple failures before I succeed.
Saviours of Lost Americans
This is Clive and Bodil Ashton...they take in lost Americans they find wandering around in Tanzania. They put them up (and put up with them) until they can learn to survive on their own. They are truly wonderful and everything they do goes above and beyond the call of duty.And no...I didn't misspell "saviours" in the title. Clive is British (Bodil is Danish) and they like these curious spellings!
Happy Birthday Noah!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY NOAH!
Do you have a best friend?
I do…and here she is…this is Karen, patron saint of processed foods. Karen is the most efficiently amazing person I know. Nothing seems to get to her and she is so talented and well-read in so many areas. She and I served on the PHF board for almost 6 years and home schooled our kids together for 18 months, which I could never have done without her support and help. I knew she was a dear friend for a long time but today a care package arrived via a PHF member and now I know what true friendship really is. Here’s what we got….
Lipton instant noodles and cup-o-soup
Instant mashed potatoes
Hidden Valley Ranch dressing
Sloppy joe mix
Taco seasoning
TONS of instant gravy
Fruit snacks
Pretzels
Instant spaghetti sauce
Zip-lock bags (amazingly expensive here)
Little toys for the kids
Curse of the Were-Rabbit
People magazine’s 20 years the sexiest men alive
P.S. I know that she is great because while I was writing this she sent me an email about "friendships of convenience" (of which we've all had so many) and friendships that last across time and distance and circumstance. I've been blessed to have two of those people in my life (yes, Lisa, that's you--my friend since 4th grade!) and so I'm feeling very lucky today, albeit very far away!
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
We are in Arusha
And I do have pics of the house and other stuff. But we don't have internet service yet and we may not until we get back from language camp. If I can't post pics there, you'll just have to tune in after March 12th.
We are sleeping on mats on the floor, we have one chair, a fridge, no stove, some lights that work, a washing machine (but no clothes pins). We have ordered beds, a dining room table, a coffee table, and some chairs. It's not like camping at all--camping only lasts a few days--and my great bro and sis in law have a sweet camper.
Talk to you later!
We are sleeping on mats on the floor, we have one chair, a fridge, no stove, some lights that work, a washing machine (but no clothes pins). We have ordered beds, a dining room table, a coffee table, and some chairs. It's not like camping at all--camping only lasts a few days--and my great bro and sis in law have a sweet camper.
Talk to you later!
Saturday, February 11, 2006
Things we miss (today).
*Spaghetti from home or from the Olive Garden
*Gretel our dog
*Cool ranch Doritos and goldfish crackers and pretzels
*Air conditioning
*A huge salad
*The Bloomington pool (yes, I know it's winter there, but it's blazing hot right now here)
*My stuff (no matter what I wrote previously)
*Ranch dressing
*Decent Scotch tape
(Notice we haven't mentioned actual cold weather or snow!)
*Gretel our dog
*Cool ranch Doritos and goldfish crackers and pretzels
*Air conditioning
*A huge salad
*The Bloomington pool (yes, I know it's winter there, but it's blazing hot right now here)
*My stuff (no matter what I wrote previously)
*Ranch dressing
*Decent Scotch tape
(Notice we haven't mentioned actual cold weather or snow!)
A quick update on the Hillmans.
We have been two days in Arusha with a wonderful couple (thanks Dave. D. for the contact) who took us around and showed us how we can get started on living on our own. Our house should be done by Monday so I think we'll be able to move over on Tuesday or Wednesday. Still no pics, but I'll have them next week for sure. It will be a bit like camping for a while. All furniture has to be made. I've brought my trusty IKEA and Pottery Barn catalogs since they can make furniture from a picture, but since most don't speak English, it will be a bit comical trying to get things done. We'll be buying more expensive food for a bit at the grocery store until we find other places to buy our daily things.
We are also in the interesting/uncomfortable position of hiring workers. We met with a man who speaks very good English and has been working for a Baptist mission school and is looking for work. We are desparately hoping that he will agree to come with us. We don't know exactly how to go about having housekeepers, etc. and Tanzanians will not tell you up front what they really need. We have servant's quarters at our house....2 rooms that are each 10x12, a shower/toilet, and an outdoor sink. That's it. This man has a wife and 4 children. They will all live in that space. Happily. It's a very difficult thing to come to grips with...we've raised the issue with everyone we've met and all agree that the chasm between the haves and have nots is huge, but eventually we'll be more comfortable with it as we meet more Tanzanians and see how they live. We had our new friend look at the quarters and he assured us that it was more than adequate. So...how many rooms does your house have?
There's also this thing...probably American...that has me uncomfortable when a black man is carrying my things around or doing work for me, saying "yes, ma'am". It is true that just the act of living is very time consuming...things just can't/don't get done easily so having workers is really pretty essential. Plus, we are wealthy by TZ standards, and employing someone in an honest job allows that person to provide for their family. I think it will be one of the most difficult things to adjust to. We also have to hire day and night guards to make sure someone's always around the property. We will be hiring a security service for the night shifts and will probably keep the Masaai man for the days, along with a part-time gardener/yard worker.
Eventually we will also need at least one large dog that can bark at all the right times, and probably two since they stay outside all the time. There is a vet's clinic that posts dogs from expats who are leaving, so we're hoping to strike something lucky. African dogs all look alike--yellowish, scrawny, etc. Dogs that look like a particular breed, like the kind we're used to, can be very intimidating/frightening to Africans. Our new friends have a boxer...the meter reader asks them to cover the dog's eyes while he's at the house because he thinks the dog can see inside him (the pushed in face really bothers people, apparently)! So does their Jack Russell, because she moves so quickly and goes in the house. We probably won't need dogs once we are at the school so we'll need to make sure whatever we choose can make a good transition.
We also visited the kids' school and fell in love with it at first glance. It is an international school, with kids from all over the world. The Arusha campus has kids from 3 through 10th grade, with 11-12th graders going to the Moshi campus as boarders. It runs an international baccalaureate program, which is very demanding. They place a big emphasis on inquiry and discovery and do alot with local issues and resources. They have great materials (and a fabulous pool) and classroom resources. The kids were so excited as they walked around campus and met their teachers and classes. Cameron's class is scheduled to go on a week long camping trip on his first day of school--he was so thrilled! Talk about brave--I don't think he's ever been away from home for a week before, not to mention in a school with complete strangers! We're very proud of his willingness to jump in. His teacher, Lloyd, will be a great fit for Cameron as he adjusts back to being in school. If you want to learn more about the schools, you can check out their website at www.ismoshi.org.
After being led around for two days by Americans who know what's what, we are feeling more comfortable with striking out on our own. We'll be in Arusha for 10 days, then at language camp for 3 weeks, then it's the real world for real! I promise more pics! In fact, I promise a whole entry of mostly pics and minimal words!
Thanks to all of you for your emails and prayers. Each one makes us tear up, but we treasure every word that you write. We are looking at a service that will allow us to call home for 2-3 cents per minute, so you may be hearing from us sooner than you think (or like)!
We are also in the interesting/uncomfortable position of hiring workers. We met with a man who speaks very good English and has been working for a Baptist mission school and is looking for work. We are desparately hoping that he will agree to come with us. We don't know exactly how to go about having housekeepers, etc. and Tanzanians will not tell you up front what they really need. We have servant's quarters at our house....2 rooms that are each 10x12, a shower/toilet, and an outdoor sink. That's it. This man has a wife and 4 children. They will all live in that space. Happily. It's a very difficult thing to come to grips with...we've raised the issue with everyone we've met and all agree that the chasm between the haves and have nots is huge, but eventually we'll be more comfortable with it as we meet more Tanzanians and see how they live. We had our new friend look at the quarters and he assured us that it was more than adequate. So...how many rooms does your house have?
There's also this thing...probably American...that has me uncomfortable when a black man is carrying my things around or doing work for me, saying "yes, ma'am". It is true that just the act of living is very time consuming...things just can't/don't get done easily so having workers is really pretty essential. Plus, we are wealthy by TZ standards, and employing someone in an honest job allows that person to provide for their family. I think it will be one of the most difficult things to adjust to. We also have to hire day and night guards to make sure someone's always around the property. We will be hiring a security service for the night shifts and will probably keep the Masaai man for the days, along with a part-time gardener/yard worker.
Eventually we will also need at least one large dog that can bark at all the right times, and probably two since they stay outside all the time. There is a vet's clinic that posts dogs from expats who are leaving, so we're hoping to strike something lucky. African dogs all look alike--yellowish, scrawny, etc. Dogs that look like a particular breed, like the kind we're used to, can be very intimidating/frightening to Africans. Our new friends have a boxer...the meter reader asks them to cover the dog's eyes while he's at the house because he thinks the dog can see inside him (the pushed in face really bothers people, apparently)! So does their Jack Russell, because she moves so quickly and goes in the house. We probably won't need dogs once we are at the school so we'll need to make sure whatever we choose can make a good transition.
We also visited the kids' school and fell in love with it at first glance. It is an international school, with kids from all over the world. The Arusha campus has kids from 3 through 10th grade, with 11-12th graders going to the Moshi campus as boarders. It runs an international baccalaureate program, which is very demanding. They place a big emphasis on inquiry and discovery and do alot with local issues and resources. They have great materials (and a fabulous pool) and classroom resources. The kids were so excited as they walked around campus and met their teachers and classes. Cameron's class is scheduled to go on a week long camping trip on his first day of school--he was so thrilled! Talk about brave--I don't think he's ever been away from home for a week before, not to mention in a school with complete strangers! We're very proud of his willingness to jump in. His teacher, Lloyd, will be a great fit for Cameron as he adjusts back to being in school. If you want to learn more about the schools, you can check out their website at www.ismoshi.org.
After being led around for two days by Americans who know what's what, we are feeling more comfortable with striking out on our own. We'll be in Arusha for 10 days, then at language camp for 3 weeks, then it's the real world for real! I promise more pics! In fact, I promise a whole entry of mostly pics and minimal words!
Thanks to all of you for your emails and prayers. Each one makes us tear up, but we treasure every word that you write. We are looking at a service that will allow us to call home for 2-3 cents per minute, so you may be hearing from us sooner than you think (or like)!
Thinking about Immigrants...
How come we are all so proud of our heritage and love to celebrate different aspects of our cultural background in America? And why are so many Americans so hard on those who are coming to our country now?
We are just back from 2 days in Arusha where we had to purchase a number of things in a town of over 1,000,000 people. There is no map of the city, no phone book, no real advertising, no real way of knowing where to go or what to do. A man in our church gave a contact of his cousin's son. They live in Arusha (he actually grew up there so he speaks fluent Swahili) and we met and he took us around town for two days so we could buy a fridge, stove, washer, foam mattresses, and beds. Very few people in our everyday lives will speak functional English and it would have been nigh impossible to accomplish these things on our own. Thanks to Amy and Chris, we enjoyed an early birthday party for Noah and their son (who share the same birthday), ate pizza, and learned our way around town (a little).
We did not know how to get a PO box, how to pay our upcoming water and electric bills, how to read the Swahili driver's license applications, or how business is done in a mostly cash economy.
Amy and Chris have been in Arusha for about 18 months so we were able to see what life might look like for us in a while.
We also had dinner with a couple from New York who have been in Moshi since August with their 2 little girls who are Ava's age. The girls played dressup and the boys watched "Star Wars". We had real hamburgers and hotdogs with ketchup and mustard!
So--now that we've been here for 10 days, what have we done? Run straight into the arms of "people like us". Those who have come before us, who understand what it's like to be new and feel isolated. Those who have learned to navigate their way around a system that was so simple back home and so overwhelming here. Those who know how to cook food we like. Those who just understand us, even though we've just met.
We'll get better. We'll learn the language and branch out. We'll be blessed with friends from every part of the globe. We'll learn new ways and love new foods and celebrate all the great things we'll get to do. But when you're brand new--there's nothing like something from home.
So if you're looking around and see people who are new to wherever you live, take a moment and try to imagine how our American world looks from their point of view. Is it any wonder every group that has come to this country since it began has settles together? Being an immigrant takes an unbelievable amount of courage. Whatever you might feel about the immigration issue, say a prayer for those who have made the journey.
We are just back from 2 days in Arusha where we had to purchase a number of things in a town of over 1,000,000 people. There is no map of the city, no phone book, no real advertising, no real way of knowing where to go or what to do. A man in our church gave a contact of his cousin's son. They live in Arusha (he actually grew up there so he speaks fluent Swahili) and we met and he took us around town for two days so we could buy a fridge, stove, washer, foam mattresses, and beds. Very few people in our everyday lives will speak functional English and it would have been nigh impossible to accomplish these things on our own. Thanks to Amy and Chris, we enjoyed an early birthday party for Noah and their son (who share the same birthday), ate pizza, and learned our way around town (a little).
We did not know how to get a PO box, how to pay our upcoming water and electric bills, how to read the Swahili driver's license applications, or how business is done in a mostly cash economy.
Amy and Chris have been in Arusha for about 18 months so we were able to see what life might look like for us in a while.
We also had dinner with a couple from New York who have been in Moshi since August with their 2 little girls who are Ava's age. The girls played dressup and the boys watched "Star Wars". We had real hamburgers and hotdogs with ketchup and mustard!
So--now that we've been here for 10 days, what have we done? Run straight into the arms of "people like us". Those who have come before us, who understand what it's like to be new and feel isolated. Those who have learned to navigate their way around a system that was so simple back home and so overwhelming here. Those who know how to cook food we like. Those who just understand us, even though we've just met.
We'll get better. We'll learn the language and branch out. We'll be blessed with friends from every part of the globe. We'll learn new ways and love new foods and celebrate all the great things we'll get to do. But when you're brand new--there's nothing like something from home.
So if you're looking around and see people who are new to wherever you live, take a moment and try to imagine how our American world looks from their point of view. Is it any wonder every group that has come to this country since it began has settles together? Being an immigrant takes an unbelievable amount of courage. Whatever you might feel about the immigration issue, say a prayer for those who have made the journey.
Sunday, February 05, 2006
Here we are in color!
This is a little hut made by the Masaai guard who is currently watching the house we'll be renting (notice his spear between Noah and Ava). The kids are already claiming this as their new playhouse (there are two of them actually) as I think we'll hire our own guards. The house has a very nice garden and the kids are looking forward to adding some dogs to the mix and playing outside. There is another compound next to ours, and a number of Tanzanian homes nearby as well. The house sits off any big roads which will help with noise and dirt control. More pics of the house when we get in and it's finished.
This is at the school site, where our house will be built. It was terrifically windy that day and really hot. The dust was flying and coating EVERYTHING. On the way back to Moshi we could hardly see. You can imagine how we looked! Clive says that kind of wind and dust blowing is not usual. The plantings that will hide the fence will offer a little windbreak. Here's hoping! On the plus side, the view is great! Now that water has been found on the land, we can actually think about plantings and buildings!
Aaah...the sounds of Africa
The breeze blowing gently through the trees?
The soft murmur of voices as people pass your house?
The songs of women as they work?
Nope.
It’s dogs. Dogs barking. Dogs fighting. Dogs howling. All night. Every night. At least until the chickens start crowing at dawn.
We're in Africa
We have arrived! We’re here in Moshi, a smaller town at the base of
Despite all of that, we are so excited to be here. It’s hard to believe that we’ve got this opportunity and are trying to make the most of every adventure along the way. We have been met at every turn with so many helpful and generous people and we are confident that God will continue to open any doors where we have a need.
***Here’s a PS to put up the hair on the back of your neck—there are no seatbelts in the cars we’ve been driving. Ever thought you’d load your kids in a car with no belts? Neither did we. Mark is going to look at a car tomorrow—we’ve decided seat belts are just not optional.
***PPS I'm having trouble uploading my pics to the blog. Be patient...I am taking them!
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